Lugging our colossal luggage bags down the cracked and jagged streets of The Old City has to be one of the most exhausting arrivals that I have yet experienced. But once checked into our hotel food was on my mind. Gushing into the first half-descent restaurant found, we demanded the most popular item on the menu. And out it came. Or should I say out they came; mountains of flat bread, freshly pickled olives, chillies and gherkins, shredded red and green cabbage, tomato and chilli salsa, tahini salad. And that was just the starter.